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66 Facts How To Remove Solder Electronics | How To Use Desoldering Wick

  • Fortunately for makers like us, the vast majority of DIY electronics involves PCBs with components populated using plated through-hole (PTH) technology. These are the familiar components with long leads that poke out through the non-component side of the PCB. True to their name, the leads of PTH components penetrate the PCB through copper tubes. - Source: Internet
  • This series wicks extremely fast, but the board will need to be cleaned after desoldering. Techspray part numbers starting with 1808 through 1813 fall into this series. If you have a requirement that you use a particular flux, or that you use an organic flux…choose unfluxed wick. You will need to add your own flux as you desolder. Unfluxed wick has a part number that starts with 1830 through 1833. - Source: Internet
  • Things with lots of leads are usually a prime candidate for this method. Basically if you cut the leads off the component but leave enough in the board it can be a lot easier to remove then if you leave them. This was the first way I was taught to desolder and it can actually be done without using any specific desoldering tools so it’s the first method I’ll discuss. - Source: Internet
  • If you were to take apart any electronic device that contains a circuit board, you’ll see the components are attached using soldering techniques. Soldering is the process of joining two or more electronic parts together by melting solder around the connection. Solder is a metal alloy and when it cools it creates a strong electrical bond between the parts. Even though soldering can create a permanent connection, it can also be reversed using a desoldering tool as described below. - Source: Internet
  • Flip the PCB to the non-component side. Now, add flux to the joint you intend to desolder. You may use anything ranging from a brush (for semisolid flux) to a syringe (liquid flux) for this purpose, but we find flux dispensing pens to be the most convenient. - Source: Internet
  • Kester 44 is excellent solder, I’ve used it for many many years. There are several things that can be wrong but start with the solder (and I don’t mean the solder on the pcb). Can you melt solder you have on hand with your iron? Does the solder smoke? Is the tip silver with solder and is the solder clinging to the surface of the iron? If the solder does not smoke it’s not flux cored, if the soldering iron tip is not holding solder and a nice silver colour it’s dirty. - Source: Internet
  • Step Four: place the tip on one end of the braid. Move the tip slowly along the braid to melt and wick solder as you move. Lift the wick as you move so that the braid doesn’t adhere to the board. - Source: Internet
  • In reality, lead-free joints don’t flow well enough to be sucked clean by a handheld desoldering pump on the first attempt. It isn’t uncommon for the component lead to remain fused to the copper tube found in a typical PTH joint. This may involve a substantial amount of solder, or just a tiny sliver, holding the component lead in place. - Source: Internet
  • Choose a width of wick that is similar in size to the glob of solder to be removed. Using wick with a significantly different width will make the solder removal more difficult. It is usually beneficial to keep several different widths at your work station in order to be ready to desolder anything that you may encounter. - Source: Internet
  • For electronics soldering, the most commonly used type is lead-free rosin core solder. This type of solder is usually made up of a Tin/Copper alloy. You can also use leaded 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead) rosin core solder but it’s becoming less popular due to health concerns. If you do use lead solder, make sure you have proper ventilation and that you wash your hands after use. - Source: Internet
  • The most popular series of Techspray desoldering wick is the No-Clean Flux series. This series pulls up the solder extremely fast, and cleaning the board after desoldering is optional and based only on aesthetics of the board. Techspray part numbers starting with 1820 through 1825 are in this series. - Source: Internet
  • Repeat steps 5 through 7 until the joint is successfully desoldered. You may have to repeat this process a few times for lead-free solder joints. Each successive attempt will gradually replace the stubborn lead-free solder in the joint with nicer lead solder until the solder sucker can do its job successfully. - Source: Internet
  • I think your board is dead. All solderpads are missing and probably the vias too. So the innerlayers will now be floating - Source: Internet
  • Desoldering is an operation to remove defective or mismounted components from printed boards. In most cases, desoldering is the first step of a repair action. Removal of excess solder is always accompanied by the desoldering process. - Source: Internet
  • Solder for electronics use contains tiny cores of flux, like the wires inside a mains flex. The flux is corrosive, like an acid, and it cleans the metal surfaces as the solder melts. This is why you must melt the solder actually on the joint, not on the iron tip. Without flux most joints would fail because metals quickly oxidise and the solder itself will not flow properly onto a dirty, oxidised, metal surface. - Source: Internet
  • I think that the black around the solder gives it away (looks like soot), your iron is too hot and you are applying heat to the area for far too long. This usually comes down to not enough or no flux, placing the iron to one side in order to see the solder ( a mistake made by many beginners) you should place the tip firmly on top of the joint and not keeping the soldering iron tip clean and not cleaning the joint before hand (there could easily be a coating put over the board after soldering in the factory). Also check that your solder is flux cored I have seen people try to solder with plumbers solder that does not contain flux cores. - Source: Internet
  • You need to be using the middle tip - a relatively blunt chisel. That board has lots of copper pours which will suck the heat away quickly and prevent the solder from reaching melting temp. You are going nuts with a red hot iron and all that does is locally burn the shit out of the soldermark and traces - and the result is the pic you posted. - Source: Internet
  • Step 1: Mount The Component – Begin by inserting the leads of the LED into the holes of the circuit board. Flip the board over and bend the leads outward at a 45′ angle. This will help the component make a better connection with the copper pad and prevent it from falling out while soldering. - Source: Internet
  • Desoldering generates a significant amount of toxic gases, so ensure your work area is well ventilated. It’s also a good idea to use a fume extractor or, at the very least, position a table fan to blow soldering fumes away from you. Eye protection is mandatory to safeguard against stray blobs of solder flung around when cleaning the tip. - Source: Internet
  • Chisel or hoof tips are ideal for desoldering PTH components, in conjunction with a desoldering pump. These tip shapes generate optimal thermal linkage. The ideal size of tip is approximately 60 percent of the pad being desoldered. This ensures a contact patch that isn’t too large or small for the job. - Source: Internet
  • Using a sponge will help to keep the soldering iron tip clean by removing the oxidation that forms. Tips with oxidation will tend to turn black and not accept solder as it did when it was new. You could use a conventional wet sponge but this tends to shorten the lifespan of the tip due to expansion and contraction. Also, a wet sponge will drop the temperature of the tip temporarily when wiped. A better alternative is to use a brass sponge as shown on the left. - Source: Internet
  • Step Two: Place the tip at an angle that maximizes heat transfer through the braid to the solder. Use a clean tip that you have just tinned with fresh solder to maximize heat transfer. Heat will be moving up the copper, so be careful not to burn yourself. - Source: Internet
  • You can replace components but PCB damage is more difficult to put right. The reason circuit boards get damaged in desoldering is because of the heat that is used. You must be careful not to apply the iron longer than you would for normal soldering. If you have to, stop and let it cool down and have another go. - Source: Internet
  • Choose the right soldering iron tip for the job. Compared to tip temperature, tip shape and size affect the thermal efficacy of a soldering iron to a greater degree. The tip quality section of our soldering iron buying guide covers this concept in greater detail. - Source: Internet
  • Repeat this process for all component leads. Be sure to re-tin the soldering iron tip after every couple of joints. The component should come off the PCB with ease at this juncture. - Source: Internet
  • At the end of most soldering irons is an interchangeable part known as a soldering tip. There are many variations of this tip and they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Each tip is used for a specific purpose and offers a distinct advantage over another. The most common tips you will use in electronics projects are the conical tip and the chisel tip. - Source: Internet
  • I have had cheapo soldering tips that disintegrated in lead-free, you might want to try something different. (That ugly blob looks exactly like my first foray into the sadistic hell that is lead-free solder, so I think that’s what you’ve got. Either way, the stuff already on the board is definitely lead free.) I use Kester 44 (eutectic) - don’t gasp too much at the price, remember, that’s a full pound of it. It’s a bit thicker than what Dave and company recommend, but I like it. - Source: Internet
  • Once soldered, the components are mechanically anchored to the PCB with a generous helping of solder. Sucking molten solder out of the plated through-holes using vacuum pressure is the ideal way to desolder such components. In the absence of a vacuum desoldering gun, the humble solder sucker is your best bet for this job. - Source: Internet
  • Step 2: Heat The Joint – Turn your soldering iron on and if it has an adjustable heat control, set it to 400’C. At this point, touch the tip of the iron to the copper pad and the resistor lead at the same time. You need to hold the soldering iron in place for 3-4 seconds in order to heat the pad and the lead. - Source: Internet
  • In suction soldering irons, the vacuum is provided by a pump which in turn sucks the molten solder from the pad area. Here, the process is more controllable in terms of suction pressure, temperature of suction tip. Various tips are available to suit specific requirement. - Source: Internet
  • 2 A suction iron is a soldering iron with a hollow tip to which a suction pump has been added. Exchangeable bits having different dimensions are available. An adjustable sucking capacity is preferred. Suction irons as well as solder suckers exist in many versions from various manufacturers. - Source: Internet
    1. A solder sucker is a kind of suction pump with a PTFE orifice, which is placed in the molten solder to be removed. The pump works with a squeeze bulb or a plunger mechanism. Those with negligible recoil effects are the most suitable. - Source: Internet
  • One good advantage of desoldering braid is its flexibility. In addition to cleaning pads and removing devices, wick can be used for eliminating shorts caused by solder bridges, correcting poor solder connections, removing components that must be remounted, cleaning flat surfaces, and removing excess solder. Desoldering wick is effective on flat surfaces and will clean residual solder. - Source: Internet
  • Step Four: Remove the wick and braid at the same time. Removing the iron before removing the wick can cause the wick to become soldered to the board. If that does happen, reheat the braid so that you can remove it. - Source: Internet
  • Step 2 – Heat your soldering iron and touch the tip to the top of the braid. This will heat the solder below which will then be absorbed into the desoldering braid. You can now remove the braid to see the solder has been extracted and removed. Be careful touching the braid when you are heating it because it will get hot. - Source: Internet
  • The burn will heal better without them. A dry dressing, such as a clean handkerchief, may be applied if you wish to protect the area from dirt. Seek medical attention if the burn covers an area bigger than your hand. To reduce the risk of burns: Always return your soldering iron to its stand immediately after use. - Source: Internet
  • Use your solder as a tool, apply a fresh bit to an already soldered joint to get the melting action started. Be quick no “flux smoke” means that you need to speed up. Adding extra flux is good but most professionals I know just use solder unless working on surface mount stuff and then they tend to use other tools (like hot air) to get the job done. - Source: Internet
  • If you are desoldering a joint on a PCB from a commercial device sold within the last 15 years, it most certainly employs lead-free solder. Such joints require the soldering iron tip to be maintained anywhere between 570 °F (300 °C) to 660 °F (350 °C). DIY PCBs often use lead solder, so they only require tip temperatures ranging from 520 °F (270 °C) to 570 °F (300 °C). - Source: Internet
  • Soldering is an indispensable skill for electronics repair, which often involves replacing faulty PCB components. This makes desoldering the first order of business that precedes soldering. For the vast majority of makers, the solder sucker (or the desoldering pump) is the weapon of choice for this important task. - Source: Internet
  • Make sure you are soldering in a well ventilated area. When solder is heated, there are fumes released that are harmful to your eyes and lungs. It’s recommended to use a fume extractor which is a fan with a charcoal filter that absorbs the harmful solder smoke you can visit sites like Integrated Air Systems for air filtration systems. - Source: Internet
  • This might sound counterintuitive, but stubborn joints can be desoldered easily by adding fresh lead solder (avoid lead-free solder). Finally, some sort of tip cleaning mechanism, such as a moist soldering sponge or brass tip cleaner, is indispensable for maintaining the thermal conductivity of the soldering iron tip. With the essentials at hand, let’s get down to the understanding proper desoldering technique. - Source: Internet
  • If that isn’t the case, double-check the PCB schematics to verify if you aren’t trying to heat up a component on a ground plane. Such joints require a high-powered soldering iron with a generous wattage rating. Similarly, larger components (such as massive bulk capacitors) also require more powerful soldering irons. - Source: Internet
  • Desoldering pumps are absolutely useless for PCBs built using surface-mount technology (SMT). Such boards are populated with specialized components known as surface-mount devices (SMD), which don’t have long leads poking through the PCB. In fact, SMDs either have no leads at all or extremely small leads on the same side of the PCB as the components. Such components can only be desoldered reliably using hot air rework stations or specialized desoldering tweezers. - Source: Internet
  • Transistors have 3 ’legs’ (leads) so take extra care to connect them correctly. They can be damaged by heat, use a heat sink until you can solder quickly. 8. Wire Links - Source: Internet
    1. Solder wick consists of woven copper wires impregnated with flux. The wick is pushed against the solder with the tip of a hot soldering iron and the molten solder is sucked up into the wick by capillary action. Solder wick is suitable for the removal of solder from joints on single sided boards and SMCs, but is less appropriate for plated holes in double-sided or multi-layer boards. - Source: Internet
  • This is certainly something you DON’T want to do. It can prove very difficult to try to repair a heat damaged circuit board and most methods are at best Heath Robinson and don’t provide long term reliability so don’t damage them in the first place. If a component is damaged or is so cheap as not to bother reusing it can be easier to remove if you essentially damage it first. - Source: Internet
  • A soldering iron stand is very basic but very useful and handy to have. This stand helps prevent the hot iron tip from coming in contact with flammable materials or causing accidental injury to your hand. Most soldering stations come with this built in and also include a sponge or brass sponge for cleaning the tip. - Source: Internet
  • The proper size braid (see table below) will have a width equal to or slightly larger than the connection or pad. Wicks that are too narrow may not hold the volume of solder necessary to remove it all in one application, while wicks that are too broad may absorb too much heat from the iron, reducing heat transfer to the connection or pad. Care should also be taken in selecting the iron tip, which should be at least as wide as the braid to ensure uniform heating of the wick. - Source: Internet
  • A soldering iron is a hand tool that plugs into a standard 120v AC outlet and heats up in order to melt solder around electrical connections. This is one of the most important tools used in soldering and it can come in a few variations such as pen or gun form. For beginners, it’s recommended that you use the pen style soldering iron in the 15W to 30W range. Most soldering irons have interchangeable tips that can be used for different soldering applications. Be very cautious when using any type of soldering iron because it can heat up to 896′ F which is extremely hot. - Source: Internet
  • There are other ways using tools that make removing components easier. one of the most popular is to use a desoldering pump. For a guide on buying and using a desoldering pump read here. - Source: Internet
  • You will need to add your own flux as you desolder. Unfluxed wick has a part number that starts with 1830 through 1833. Each of the series of wicks that I have mentioned are wound onto static dissipative bobbins to eliminate any danger of a static charge being generated or transferred from you to the circuit board. - Source: Internet
  • Step Three: Apply slight pressure and wait for the solder to melt. Don’t get in too big of a hurry at this point. Allow the tip to dwell long enough on the wick to heat the wick and then the solder on the other side. You will see the wick begin to absorb the solder. Hold the tip and wick in place until the wicking action has stopped. - Source: Internet
  • Before you can start soldering, you need to prep your soldering iron by tinning the tip with solder. This process will help improve the heat transfer from the iron to the item you’re soldering. Tinning will also help to protect the tip and reduce wear. - Source: Internet
  • Solder is a metal alloy material that is melted to create a permanent bond between electrical parts. It comes in both lead and lead-free variations with diameters of .032″ and .062″ being the most common. Inside the solder core is a material known as flux which helps improve electrical contact and its mechanical strength. - Source: Internet
  • As mentioned earlier, solder does come in a few different diameters. The thicker diameter solder (.062″) is good for soldering larger joints more quickly but it can make soldering smaller joints difficult. For this reason, it’s always a good idea to have both sizes on hand for your different projects. - Source: Internet
  • A solder sucker is only one of the many tools required for DIY desoldering of a PCB assembly populated by PTH components. You additionally need a temperature-controlled soldering iron to heat up the joints. Good-quality rosin flux is absolutely essential to ensure that the solder melts quickly and flows free enough to be sucked into the device. - Source: Internet
  • A soldering station is a more advanced version of the basic standalone soldering pen. If you are going to be doing a lot of soldering, these are great to have as they offer more flexibility and control. The main benefit of a soldering station is the ability to precisely adjust the temperature of the soldering iron which is great for a range of projects. These stations can also create a safer workspace as some include advanced temperature sensors, alert settings and even password protection for safety. - Source: Internet
  • Step 4: Snip The Leads – Remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool down naturally. Don’t blow on the solder as this will cause a bad joint. Once cool, you can snip the extra wire from leads. - Source: Internet
  • The solder wick would normally remove solder from holes. But sometimes it doesn’t. A couple of more tricks to remove solder from holes. - Source: Internet
  • To use, press the plunger down at the end of the solder sucker. Heat the joint with your soldering iron and place the tip of the solder sucker over the hot solder. Press the release button to suck up the liquid solder. In order to empty the solder sucker, press down on the plunger. - Source: Internet
  • This series pulls up the solder extremely fast, and cleaning the board after desoldering is optional and based only on aesthetics of the board. Techspray part numbers starting with 1820 through 1825 are in this series. We also have a series of Rosin flux wick, know as the Pro-Wick Series. This series wicks extremely fast, but the board will need to be cleaned after desoldering. Techspray part numbers starting with 1808 through 1813 fall into this series. - Source: Internet
  • Learning how to solder w/ proper soldering techniques is a fundamental skill every maker should master. In this tutorial, we outline the basics of soldering irons, soldering stations, types of solder, desoldering and safety tips. Whether you’re building a robot or working with Arduino, knowing how to solder will come in handy. - Source: Internet
  • A helping hand is a device that has 2 or more alligator clips and sometimes a magnifying glass/light attached. This clips will assist you by holding the items you are trying to solder while you use the soldering iron and solder. A very helpful tool to have in your makerspace. - Source: Internet
  • Congratulations. You have successfully learned how to desolder a component off the PCB. If you need to clean any residual solder off the board, check out our desoldering wick guide. - Source: Internet
  • Desoldering with wicking braid is only accomplished with long periods of applied heat, usually 4 to 5 seconds, although occasionally this can be more than 10 sec. Most components do not suffer damage, but in the absence of heatsinks the rated body temperature of conventional components is approached. The suction soldering iron requires shorter operation times and lower temperatures than wicking braid. - Source: Internet
  • Step 3: Apply Solder To Joint – Continue holding the soldering iron on the copper pad and the lead and touch your solder to the joint. IMPORTANT – Don’t touch the solder directly to the tip of the iron. You want the joint to be hot enough to melt the solder when it’s touched. If the joint is too cold, it will form a bad connection. - Source: Internet
How To Remove Solder Electronics - Desolder Without Pump

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